A few great ideas for trips in the Chez Arran area from Lu, Ben, Sophie & Olivia
Tuesday, 10 November 2015
A few great ideas for trips in the Chez Arran area from Lu, Ben, Sophie & Olivia
Friday, 22 October 2010
TICKING THE BOXES: A FAMILY CLIMBING HOLIDAY IN THE ARIEGE BY HELENA TILLEY



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TICKING THE BOXESA FAMILY CLIMBING HOLIDAY IN THE ARIEGE,
FRANCE.
It’s almost six years since I suggested we climb as a family. Little did I know then what that would mean. Six years on and climbing has taken over our lives with all three kids training/ climbing three to four sessions a week at least as well as the numerous competition and climbing events - especially for my son Luke of course. This summer it was a challenge to find a whole week together with Luke’s climbing schedule and guess what – climbing had to figure high on the holiday menu!
A week at Chez Arran turned out to be the perfect holiday destination for us. The house is in the Ariege region of France is nestled in the lower hills of the Pyrenees. Owned by Anne and John Arran it ticked every box. The house its self was lovely. Waking up on the first morning and opening the shutters to a breathtaking view of the sun coming round the mountain side was worth going to bed for, especially when Luke brought up a cup of tea for me to enjoy.
The house was cool and shady and very comfortable and well stocked with climbing mags. in French and English, the topos for local climbs and a selection of DVDs to watch over a glass of wine in the evening. We also put the garden to good use with a blast of sunbathing and quick dip in the pool between morning and evening climbing sessions.
What about the climbing? Well I guess it was awesome! I certainly had a very happy bunch of climbers along side. Chez Arran is within 15minutes of several amazing crags offering everything from some easier routs (5b to 7a) for the girls and plenty of challenges for Luke in the 8a range, with no queues! At one point Luke had just red pointed Amalthée at Genat while beside him Romain Pagnoux red-pointed an 8c. Later we had Luke photographing from a hanging belay while Naomi and Flo climbed and Simon and I belayed – that’s three on the crag at once!
Anne was very energetic in helping to facilitate our climbing experience and arranged for us to meet with the local team at Solo Escalade in Toulouse. We were joined in Genat the following day by Fabrice Landry (4th in the junior worlds last year) and now aiming for the senior team, Chloe a girl of Naomi’s age with similar skill. We hope to establish some stronger links so that we can combine a climbing and language exchange.
Chez Arran is surrounded by opportunity! We managed an excellent canoe trip and took in some amazing cave paintings. We of course sampled the Region’s wine and cheese as well as Anne’s easy company when we were at home.
It is difficult to think of a better climbing holiday. Even I got off the ground a couple of times but mostly it was a joy to see the enthusiasm of all of the family to climb every day. We will certainly be back.
Helena Tilley 14th September 2010
Monday, 19 July 2010
Tour de France Vruuuuuuuuummmmmm or whoooosh! ! !

It took 24 seconds of the leading group of tour de France athletes to pass our guests the Scott/Sharples family. Down the road the sounds of the crowd gradually became louder as the cyclists approached. Despite the N20 to Ax being closed from 14hrs - 19hrs it seemed very easy for spectators to come and watch. Some even camped by the road side to secure thier place. It is possible to catch the train from Tarascon sur Ariege to Ax for next time....
I've always thought that the Tour de France athletes are some of the fittest around. To check out more on the final stages see: http://www.letour.fr/2010/TDF/LIVE/us/1500/etape_par_etape.html
Christophe Riblon – Stage winners comment - “Last night I would not have bet a euro on me…”A year ago he helped a team-mate race into the yellow jersey on the first mountain stage of the Tour de France, today Christophe Riblon found a few answers to questions he was asking himself in Andorra after stage seven 12 months ago.
“I was really disappointed with my start of the Tour, because I wanted to do something overall, and it did not work. Especially the last two days were very difficult, and I was almost depressed. Then [AG2R La Mondiale’s directeurs sportif] Vincent Lavenu and Julien Jurdi talk to me at length, explaining that I’m usually in good shape by the third week of a Tour, so I had to take my chances and go in a breakaway. They gave me morale, but last night I would still not bet a euro on me.
“In the final I did not want to say ,‘I won’. I constantly repeated to myself, ‘I’m going to win’, but I did not want to be sure, not until the last kilometer. I remembered last year when I wondered how Brice Feillu had done what he did to win the stage to Andorra Arcalis. We were behind, and I do not understand how we failed to reel him in – how could he have stayed ahead when there were riders chasing him down. Now I realize why he could do it. When you’re alone in front, with a few kilometers to the finish, the support of the public helps to carry you and it encourage you, it transforms you and gives you strength. I gave everything and I felt I could not lose.”
Top Five Of General Classification Remains The Same
With his fourth place in the stage, Schleck has maintained his lead in the general classification. There are no changes to the top five.
Big thanks to Alistair for the images and video clip!
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Wednesday, 7 July 2010
Guests climbing pics - A great day out on Sinsat with a Genat shot thrown in!




Here are some pics from guest Graham Iles who was a victim of the Ash cloud and had to try hard to get back to the UK, he said, 'We had an epic two day journey back to the UK; we ended up having to drive from Barcelona (how did we end up there???) to Paris and then picked up a lift to Kent from some friends of friends, followed by trains and more cars! Phew! We had a great trip thanks and hope to return next year, subject to volcanic eruptions of course! '
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Cliffhanger 2010


Back in the UK right now on assignment for Climber magazine and just seen the most Brits ever qualify for an IFSC Bouldering World Cup semi at Cliffhanger in Millhouses park, Sheffield. Gaz Parry and Stu Watson qualified in first place - an incredibly good effort. Also for the first time we saw 3 British women go through Mina Leslie Wujastyk, Diane Merrick and Leah Crane. Unfortunately none made it through to the final. It was a great day though for Adam Ondra (CZE) who clinched the men's and Cloe Graftiaux (BEL) who won the women's. It was also a great opportunity to catch up with some friends. Back to chez Arran site
Wednesday, 17 February 2010
Ice thrills at first European youth ice climbing championship in Saas Grund


President of the UIAA Youth Commission, Anne Arran, interviewed three key people involved with the first ever UIAA European Youth Ice Climbing Championship which took place from January 16 to 17 in Saas Grund, Switzerland.
Liubov Mikryukova Age 16 – Ice climber – winner of the first UIAA European youth Ice climbing Cup
Liubov, aged 16, grew up in chilly Kirov and started rock climbing six years ago when she was just ten. It wasn’t until the age of fourteen she started ice climbing, ‘ Ice is my favourite. I was inspired by seeing an ice world cup and thought I’d like to try it. It’s incredible, it’s mine, I have unusual feelings for it!’ I asked Luibov a few questions about how she is able to thrive in this harsher sporting environment and about the first European Youth Ice climbing cup in Saas Grund on 16th – 17th January.
What about the competition here – how was it?
‘Here in Saas Grund I like all the routes, rock and Ice but my hands are like ice when I clip so it’s hard. But the comp is amazing, very exciting good routes on ice and the rocks.’
Have you led any ice falls outside?
So far I have only done routes with bolts or preplaced ice screws. We only do ice in the winter, at home there is a wall where we can climb all year and it has holds for climbing with ice tools. I have only done one route outside, I don’t think it was very hard. In the finals of the competition it was my second mixed M route on rock ever! I have only a small experience of it.
What do your friends think of it?
I have many climbing friends in Russia but many don’t like ice climbing because it’s dangerous and cold. But I like it, it’s my addiction!
What advice would you give to other young climbers if they wanted to try ice climbing?
This is not just a hobby, it’s a way of life. It’s risky but an amazing feeling after you climb – must be tried! It is hard to express how it is. Our youngest team member is 15 years old.
What are your future ambitions
I want to visit Italy, France and Romania. I want to see different types of ice – I want to learn all about it - I am a very curious person. Oh and I want to become a famous sports person and get the gold!
Urs Odermatt – 35 years old, former World Cup winner in Norway –UIAA Youth “Coaching with the Stars”
Urs started climbing in 1990 so there was only primitive coaching then, ‘You just had to survive!. ‘But then we had some serious training in the gym. I won a world cup in Norway but think my best achievement was coming second in the Russian speed climbing championships’.
Top tips from Urs
‘Beginners should climb as much ice as possible. If you have a good axe it knows what to do. Hold it in a relaxed way and give a swing with the hand, almost as if you were throwing it. When it bites into the ice grip it and lock. Hang on a straight arm’. Making it only a short time that you are gripping the axe hard uses less energy. ‘These days you need to be a world class an climbing competition to be top class in ice climbing, to have the repertoire of moves’.
‘On rock, mixed climbing, if you have a hook, don’t replace the axe once it’s in. On rock you can really feel the hold so its possible to move your hand, but with the ice axe you only have visual control of seeing where the axe should go’.
‘Climbing on ice is similar to rock but it’s less dynamic and you use the figure of 4 move a lot more. There are many lock in moves so you need to be strong at this, but training on the campus board can ruin the elbows!’
‘It’s necessary to be able to cope with very cold temperatures, down to - 30 degrees in Kirov. Those who weren’t used to it didn’t do so well’.
Future ambitions? ‘At the moment I like very long ice lines with as many pitches as possible! You can have nightmares before them but when you survive you think it’s OK. I never talk about planned trips. My next target is about 1 hour from Zurich. It is the biggest waterfall in Europe – 1800m of ice fall. It has no name – I’m not going to tell you where it is’, he laughs. ‘We have tried it before but the conditions on the top are either too cold or avalanching so it’s difficult’.
More information on Urs and some amazing images of and his outdoor climbing can be found on http://www.eisklettern.ch
Tuesday, 2 February 2010
powder galore at Ax



Just had a great day at Ax....
Deep powder and loads of off piste fun. Only extreme moment was when I had to throw my board down and hand over hand down steep ground between trees. Lots of swoosh, swoosh - got to get better at this - so check the pics
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