Sunday, 20 December 2009


A little later than usual the winter finally arrived last week ... and did so in spectacular fashion, with plenty of snow and temperatures down to -12.

We took advantage by heading up to the Plateau de Beille, one of France's premier Nordic Skiing resorts and only 20 minutes away by car, for a bit of much needed practice. There was a festival atmosphere there as it was the resort's 20-year anniversary, so access to all the pistes was free for the day, which we weren't about to argue with! There were plenty of other fun things laid on for the day too, like live music and magic shows, excursions on the piste-basher and a huge floating inflatable dragon which was determined to eat the candles from the 4m-wide snow-cake built specially for the resort's birthday.


The husky dogs were out too, seemingly raring to go for another season of haring across the snow-covered plateau with gleeful people in tow.

Then today the sun came out again and with perfect blue skies and dead calm it would have been a great day for climbing, but we missed out this time. Never mind, the forecast for tomorrow is quite good too.

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Genat - winter sun crag focus










One of the finest crags in the area for people climbing grades 7a and 8, although there are some very good easier routes too. The main crag is extremely overhanging in its central section, generally on good but sometimes improved holds and stunning tufas. Notably there are some slab routes which stay dry even after long periods of rain, including routes of 6a-6c. Rock, orange and grey limestone.
Leave the main Tarascon to Vicdessos road (D8) at Niaux. Cross the river, pass through Alliat village and continue a further 5 minutes up zigzags before taking a turnoff to the left shortly before reaching Génat village. 400m later the road ends at a gate where there is parking space for about 6 cars. To the right of the main gate is a footpath; follow this through a smaller gate and up right to the crag. 5 minutes walk.









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Sunday, 6 December 2009

Gaz Parry and Kate Mills visit the Grotte de Sabart




We had the pleasure of entertaining Gaz, Kate & Pebbles the horse on their way from their house in Costa Blanca see http://epic-adventures.eu/default.aspxadventures.eu/default.aspx After some warm up cranking or 'that's enough' cranking at Genat we headed to Grotte de Sabart. Kate and I were in the 'that's enough' team & Gaz found la Dame de Sabart not a walk in the park, but polished it off nevertheless the following day. Hat's off to Stevie Haston for his routes there - you certainly need top sequences and a stong core to survive ... Pebbles seemed to enjoy the stay and was intrigued to meet Geri and Panache our neighbours horses. I'm looking forward to having more stamina on 30m roofs and an improved core so that more than 1 or 2 attempts are more worthwhile!

Wednesday, 11 November 2009

2010 Tour de France - Pyrenees stage near us!

The 2010 Tour de France route through the Pyrenees has now been announced and there's a stage right next Chez Arran, finishing at our local ski resort Ax Les Thermes.

Stage 14 Revel to Ax les Thermes i 184km long - Date: Sunday 18th July
The comment of Christian Prudhomme - Director of Tour de France
"1910-2010. The celebrations in honour of the hundredth anniversary of the Tour’s first foray into the Pyrenees will be the highlight of this 97th edition of the race. A novelty in the first of the four Pyrenean stages: two “modern” as an alternative to “historical” climbs will be tackled as the gruelling Port de Pailhères and Plateau de Bonascre in Ax-3 Domaines were not included on the race itinerary before the 21st century".


If Ax-les Thermes is a regular point of call on the Tour since 1933, its ski resort, Ax-3 Domaines, hosts the race since 2001. Stage finishes are held at the Plateau de Bonascre, one of the three skiing areas that make up the resort. In 2003, an impressive little Spanish climber here abandoned his usual reserve to claim the first of his three Tour stage victories: five years later, Carlos Sastre won the Tour.

It then starts again at Pamier which is also only a few km away. Let us know if you want to stay to see the Tour!

The event will be broadcast live on: http://www.letour.fr/



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Friday, 6 November 2009

Out and about in Russia and South Africa












It wasn't all climbing in France over the summer. I went to climb Elbrus with the UIAA Global Youth Summit and had a great time, although getting up at 2am and ploughing up the first slopes in the strong cross wind wasn't the most fun. Dawn came though and it was magnificent as sun rise brought light to the many high peaks around. The train of climbers plodded higher and it wasn't until 5000m that I felt it was tough for a while. Every step was an effort. At the col at 5,300m we hit sunshine and having a sandwich helped no end. With a new lease of life I went on to the summit. It was too misty to see much but never mind - the highest peak in Europe was climbed :)

Last week we got back from South Africa where we had the UIAA Youth Commission mtg in Capetown. The hospitality was excellent and after the meeting it was possible to visit Rocklands and Cederberg to snatch some climbing - and later some animals in Pilanesberg game reserve. Thanks to Mark Johnston for the images!

Monday, 5 October 2009

With the House and the Apartment both rented out, we're relegated to less luxurious accommodation in the next-in-line place to live. Not sure what to call it yet, maybe the Gîte? Or maybe we'll think of a naming system that doesn't seem to confuse people so easily - answers on an email please  ;-)
The good part about living in unfinished digs is that you want to get out a lot, so we've been doing a lot more climbing and other stuff lately than we've had time for ever since we moved in last winter. Anne's quickly back to climbing 7c and I'm up to 8a+ again so things are starting to pick up nicely, just in time for a trip to South Africa in a couple of weeks time, which we're really looking forward to.

I also grabbed an opportunity while Anne was back in Blighty to check out some higher mountain crags. My plan was to reduce the approach time to the Pic Rouge de Belcaire - one of the Bassiès crags - by running much of it, but the plan was soon thwarted once I realised that much of the approach was up a 1:1 hill! Still, the crag was definitely worth the effort as the rock there is amazing - even though I completely failed to find the route I was trying to climb!

I was looking for a route called Friscounette - 7 pitches up to 6a and mostly trad - and I climbed about 7 pitches or so up to about 6a, but I was a bit puzzled by the lack of equipped belays, even though I did pass the occasional peg or two.

When I got home I did a bit of googling and found out it started somewhere completely different, so I ended up braving the 2+ hour approach again. Heaven knows what I may have been on the first time but the real route itself was probably even better, with one particularly memorable pitch (see picture) up nothing but granite chickenheads. Amazing! Very much recommended for anyone after a long route of about E2 5b and who doesn't mind a bit of a steep hike-in in return for great climbing and a 360 degree panorama of awesome peaks from the 2, 650m summit.

It's not just us who think so!

Every morning (well almost) we wake up, look out the window at another gorgeous day in the making, and say to ourselves: 'It's another sunny day in paradise!'  It really is going to take a very long time to get bored of being around here.
So it's good to know that it isn't just us who seem to have been smitten. Matt Heason and his family are good friends and were staying here for most of August, helping us with some of the chez Arran redevelopment work while climbing with us and trying to wear out our pool - on this latter objective they tried hard but I'm pleased to report they didn't succeed as it's still operational even into October, although it's getting to the point where you have to be REALLY hot before you want to brave it now. Having said that it was 28 degrees here today!
Anyway, Matt said some very nice things about his time here on his blog at http://www.heason.net/News_&_Blog/Blog/2009/09/01/Chez_Arran/, and compiled this great photomontage:

Thanks Matt, and look forward to your next visit.
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